Day 10, Part 4: Monday, May 1st, 2006
Beatty, Nevada to Death Valley National Park and back

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After lunch, it's even hotter than it was before, so I decide that the only sensible thing for me to do is to drive up into the surrounding mountains and wait out the rest of the afternoon in the coolness of the higher elevations. I drive west from the valley and head into the Panamint Range, where a group of charcoal kilns have been abandoned and left for the ages.

There are considerably less visitors on this side of the valley, and the empty road I'm on gives me spectacular views of the backside of Telescope Peak.

The kilns themselves are at the end of a long and dusty road into the mountains, where the temperature is maybe 30 degrees cooler than it was in the valley below. Still tired from my adventures with the frisbee, I decide that it's high time I took a nap.

Five groups of people come to visit the kilns while I'm curled up in the backseat of my car. The first three are all couples--one of whom includes a German woman who is openly suprised when she notices me dozing in my car. Being in the presence of so many pairs of people makes me feel temporarily lonely, and so I start to write post cards to my friends once I wake up from my nap. While I'm doing that, the fourth group of people arrives: four Japanese guys in a mini-van. The driver gets out, bypasses my car, and starts talking to the third couple, who appear to be preparing themselves for a long hike into the mountains. Incredibly, the driver explains to them that he and his friends are trying to get to Los Angeles, and have lost their way. It's as unclear to me as it is to the couple how anyone could have come this far into the wilderness without either turning around or asking for directions, but the driver insists that's exactly what he's done. Eventually, the couple sets them straight by pointing the Japanese guys in the direction of Ridgecrest and U.S. 395, but it's never made clear where they have come from, or how they could have come so far out of their way.

After the Japanese guys get back in their van and leave, the fifth group of people--a Japanese couple from LA--arrives at the kilns. They ask me if I've come here all the way from Indiana and, once I say that I have, we talk for a little while about how much fun it is to get away from civilization. Even though they're together, they seem a little lonely, too--and happy to talk to another person for a change. After engaging them for a few minutes, I get back in my car and head back down to the valley, where I hope to catch some pictures of the sunset over the sand dunes near Stovepipe Wells.


I pick up two oranges for dinner at the solitary gas station in Stovepipe Wells. I eat them both while I wait for the sun to emerge from behind a cloud so that I can take this picture. A gigantic fly keeps buzzing around me while I eat, and I worry for a little while about how much it will hurt if it stings. I then wave at it to shoo it away and inadvertently kill it in the process. So much for that.

Eventually, I drive over to the dunes and tramp through the sand to find the best spot to take a picture of the sunset itself. A handful of people are already there, with the same thing in mind as me.

Persistent winds are blowing down off the mountains, forming ripples in the sand. The winds are recirculating the heat from the afternoon, and it feels like it's still 100 degrees out there, even though night is ready to fall. As I sit and wait for the sun to set, I can feel my eyeballs drying out with each passing blast of hot air.

North of the dunes, a cloud bursts, but the air is so dry that the rain evaporates before it ever reaches the ground.

Night finally comes to the simmering world of Death Valley, and I head back home in the darkness.

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